Château DeFay: Inside Guatemala’s Only Commercial Vineyard
Wine at 14 Degrees Latitude on the Shoulders of Volcán de Agua
Jan de Weerd - Spoken Wines
This will hide itself!
Château DeFay: Inside Guatemala’s Only Commercial Vineyard
Wine at 14 Degrees Latitude on the Shoulders of Volcán de Agua
Wait… what? There’s a commercial vineyard here?
That was the rumor I heard while brushing up on my limited Spanish during an immersion class in Antigua, Guatemala.
So on a clear November afternoon, my friend — who had just guided me through the wine regions of his native Hungary — and I left Antigua and climbed the winding road toward the slopes of Volcán de Agua. The air thinned, the views opened, and the landscape shifted into deep volcanic soil that locals proudly say can grow almost anything.
But wine? Hardly anyone would associate this latitude with vineyards.
Here, so close to the equator, sunlight barely changes with the seasons, temperatures stay steady year-round, and vines never sink into winter dormancy — a natural cycle wine grapes traditionally rely on.
And yet, perched at 6,000 feet, there it was: the only commercially operating winery in Guatemala, and one of just two in all of Central America.
This is the story of Château DeFay.
The Question That Started It All
When Jack DeFay retired from his work with USAID and later the World Bank, he came to Guatemala hoping to grow something meaningful. He tried the crops local experts recommended — raspberries, vegetables, fruits — all successful. When he asked about wine grapes, the answer was immediate: impossible.
So Jack planted them anyway.
He experimented with dozens of varieties imported from Washington State — Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Pinot Gris and more. Over time, the vineyard told him which ones could cope with the conditions. Today, Isabella stands as the vineyard’s backbone, with Pinot Gris still under careful experimentation. Fifteen years later, what began as a curiosity has become a functioning vineyard on the shoulder of a volcano.
When he asked about wine grapes, the answer was immediate: impossible. So Jack planted them anyway.
A Vineyard That Never Sleeps
At 14 degrees latitude, Château DeFay sits in perpetual spring. The vines never fully shut down; winter never comes. So Jack had to invent his own seasons. After the main December harvest, he strips every vine of its leaves — row by row — forcing an artificial dormancy. The vines push new shoots, leading to a second, smaller June harvest.
Winemaking here is shaped by adaptation:
Whole-berry fermentation for six months
Punch-downs only during the first five days
Slow, cool fermentation in stainless steel tanks at natural temperatures (50–70°F)
Minimal additions: bentonite, enzymes for clarity, and small doses of bisulfites
Aging entirely in stainless steel, with oak chips used only when Jack wants a specific nuance
The resulting wines are unique to this place, shaped as much by necessity as by preference carrying the sweetness that Jack personally favors. One of the reds, with an amber-tinged hue and gentle residual sugar, felt almost like a tropical spin on tawny port.
The resulting wines are unique to this place, shaped as much by necessity as by preference carrying the sweetness that Jack personally favors.
A Living, Evolving Estate
Château DeFay sits on a 48-hectare finca, half dedicated to grapes and the rest producing avocados, coffee, corn, and beans. A complete winery — from destemmer to press to stainless-steel tanks and bottling line — allows everything to be done on-site.
What began as an agricultural experiment is now becoming a destination. Over the last two years, Jack and his wife Jackie have built guest houses overlooking the valley, offering visitors a front-row seat to one of the world’s most unconventional vineyards.
The project continues to evolve. Jack still hopes to coax Pinot Gris into thriving, and each year reveals something new about growing wine at 14° latitude.
