Most vineyards rely on a natural winter. Château DeFay does not have one.

At approximately 14 degrees latitude, on the slopes of Guatemala's Volcán de Agua, the seasons remain remarkably consistent. The vines receive steady daylight and do not naturally enter the winter dormancy that traditionally resets the growing cycle. At nearly 6,000 feet above sea level, however, Jack DeFay found enough elevation, volcanic soil, and cool mountain conditions to attempt what local experts considered impossible: growing wine grapes commercially in Guatemala.

His solution was not to force Guatemala to behave like California or Europe. It was to invent a new rhythm for the vineyard. After the December harvest, Jack removes the leaves from the vines to mimic winter dormancy. The vines then produce a second, smaller harvest in June. Isabella became the vineyard's backbone, producing wines with a character that could exist nowhere else.

We first heard about Château DeFay while in Guatemala and brushing up on Spanish in Antigua. The idea sounded improbable enough to investigate. So we climbed toward Volcán de Agua, and found a working vineyard, a complete winery, and one of Central America's most unusual wine stories.

Watch our video before continuing with the full story: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6unYv3vf_xc

Wait… what? There's a commercial vineyard here, and it is Guatemala's only commercially operating winery.
That was the rumor I heard while brushing up on my limited Spanish during an immersion class in Antigua, Guatemala.

So on a clear November afternoon, my friend, who had just guided me through the wine regions of his native Hungary, and I left Antigua and climbed the winding road toward the slopes of Volcán de Agua. The air thinned, the views opened, and the landscape shifted into deep volcanic soil that locals proudly say can grow almost anything.

But wine? Hardly anyone would associate this latitude with vineyards.
Here, so close to the equator, sunlight barely changes with the seasons, temperatures stay steady year-round, and vines never sink into winter dormancy, a natural cycle wine grapes traditionally rely on.

And yet, perched at 6,000 feet, there it was: Château DeFay, Guatemala's only commercially operating winery.

This is the story of Château DeFay.

The Question That Started It All

When Jack DeFay retired from his work with USAID and later the World Bank, he came to Guatemala hoping to grow something meaningful. He tried the crops local experts recommended, raspberries, vegetables, fruits, all successful. When he asked about wine grapes, the answer was immediate: impossible.

So Jack planted them anyway.

He experimented with dozens of varieties imported from Washington State, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Pinot Gris and more. Over time, the vineyard told him which ones could cope with the conditions, an approach shared by growers coping with volcanic soils and unusual vineyard conditions elsewhere in the world. Today, Isabella stands as the vineyard's backbone, with Pinot Gris still under careful experimentation. Fifteen years later, what began as a curiosity has become a functioning vineyard on the shoulder of a volcano.

Jack and Jackie went for the 'impossible'. Starting a vineyard and producing wines in Guatemala.

A Vineyard That Never Sleeps

At 14 degrees latitude, Château DeFay sits in perpetual spring. The vines never fully shut down; winter never comes. So Jack had to invent his own seasons.

How the Vineyard Creates Its Own Seasons

• December: Main harvest and leaf removal to mimic winter dormancy

• After dormancy: New growth begins

• June: A smaller second harvest

• Winemaking: Whole-berry fermentation, stainless-steel aging, and limited additions

• Core grape: Isabella, selected for its ability to adapt to the site

In practice, that means whole-berry fermentation for six months, punch-downs only during the first five days, slow and cool fermentation in stainless steel tanks at natural temperatures (50 to 70°F), minimal additions of bentonite and enzymes for clarity, small doses of bisulfites, and aging entirely in stainless steel, with oak chips used only when Jack wants a specific nuance.

The resulting wines are unique to this place, shaped as much by necessity as by preference, carrying the sweetness that Jack personally favors. One of the reds, with an amber-tinged hue and gentle residual sugar, felt almost like a tropical spin on tawny port.

The resulting wines are unique to this place, shaped as much by necessity as by preference carrying the sweetness that Jack personally favors.

Where to Find Château DeFay Wine

Château DeFay wines are difficult to find through mainstream U.S. retailers, but the winery does have a Vivino page, where readers can explore wines associated with the estate. The listing currently includes wines such as the Don Jacques Reserva, the White Merlot, the Claret, the Family Red, and the Family White.

Availability and shipping vary by country. If you are visiting Guatemala, the most reliable route is to contact Château DeFay directly before traveling. The winery's current contact information is WhatsApp: +502 3768 8353.

Vivino is a discovery and availability link, not a guaranteed shipping option. These wines should not be treated as available for purchase in the United States unless inventory and shipping have been confirmed.

A Living, Evolving Estate

Château DeFay sits on a 48-hectare finca, half dedicated to grapes and the rest producing avocados, coffee, corn, and beans. A complete winery, from destemmer to press to stainless-steel tanks and bottling line, allows everything to be done on-site.

What began as an agricultural experiment is now becoming a destination. Over the last two years, Jack and his wife Jackie have built guest houses overlooking the valley, offering visitors a front-row seat to one of the world's most unconventional vineyards, another wine story shaped by an extreme landscape that reminded us of Château DeFay's own improbable terrain.

The project continues to evolve. Jack still hopes to coax Pinot Gris into thriving, and each year reveals something new about growing wine at 14° latitude.

Jack and his wife Jackie have built guest houses overlooking the valley, offering visitors a front-row seat to one of the world's most unconventional vineyards.

Planning a Visit to Château DeFay

Château DeFay is more than a tasting stop. It is an agricultural experiment, a working winery, and a mountain destination overlooking the Guatemalan landscape.

Visitors should contact the estate in advance about tastings, meals, accommodations, and road conditions. The vineyard is on the slopes of Volcán de Agua, and the final approach may require additional travel time. The estate also offers guest houses overlooking the valley.

If you are staying in Antigua, make the visit part of a broader day exploring Guatemala's volcanic landscape. Château DeFay is especially suited to travelers who want to see how wine changes when a place does not fit the usual assumptions about where vineyards can exist.

Château DeFay may not resemble a traditional European estate, and that is precisely why it matters. The wines are shaped by Isabella, volcanic soil, high elevation, artificial dormancy, and Jack DeFay's willingness to keep experimenting.

If you are traveling through Guatemala, contact Château DeFay before your visit at +502 3768 8353. If you cannot make the journey, explore the winery's Vivino page and watch our short film: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6unYv3vf_xc.

After 40 years in 'global investment', I am going to try to do something impossible. After I tried four or five different crops, I asked, what about grapes? The guy at the Ministry said, forget it!